Contrary to popular belief, rhythm is not a genetically inherited Latin trait. Brazilians, known for the complex movements of the samba, forro and numerous unpronouncable Carnaval dances, have long held the torch of dances that are only performed by Gringos under forced resort settings or the false confidence of tropical vacation drinks. What is less known though is that the common Brazilian does not spend their youth practicing intricate two steps to Sergio Mendes, and that wallflowers, men who only resort to what is best described as "joke dancing" (dance floor staples such as "the lawnmower", "the shopping car", or the retro "wind up doll" come to mind), camera happy rump shakers, and the ever present tall-guy-with-shirt-off-who-seems-to-be-staring-at-nothing-but-with-a-menacing-glare, well, they are all there.
And they like the Bee Gees.
Lapa, Rio's defunct Bohemian hotbed has slowly transformed into the late night mecca for dance floor hungry youth, offering a line of bars and discotechs ranging from hip hop, goth s & m, American 80s techno and the cultural favorite: baile funk. Outside, vendors barter prices for french fries, fried hot dogs, cheap beer and coconut juices, while young children struggle to sell overpriced Trident gum to inebriated tourists while still relishing the bright lights and elation far from the daily violence of the favelas. The sweat and heat is immediate and by midnight, most of the crowd is stripped to close to nothing, a mass of therapeutic perspiration and nirvanic movement, without thought or pretense of to "properly" move. Some do the robot, some do the booty clap, and some simply swirl and spin, lost in their own private, impenetrable euphoria under the smoke glazed lights below the DJ.
Every color co-mingles, every race exalts to the frantic pounding of baile funk, chanting in unison to the lyrics for "More, more, more!", grabbing hands, spinning in circles, tilting their heads to the ceiling and wailing in an almost tribalistic joy. From one hour to the next, the music transitions from Madonna to Chuck Berry to New Order to aggressive Brazilian hip hop, and the crowd never falters nor do they boo or hiss. They simply continue moving, celebrating the freedom to move without judgement, under flashing strobes and pounding bass until first light brings about a new day.
Rio is alive.
Peace and Wellness,
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